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NightWolf
(@nightwolf)
🌜Est. 2017 🐺
Joined: 6 months ago
Posts: 347
 

I use Vallejo & Posca, i have a Hobby lobby which is 5 blocks from me, i can walk there if i want. Citadel is kinda hard to find & apple barrel is kinda low quality, never used tamaya. I'm pretty good at matching paint, my last mod was adding a middle finger to Pacman and i had to make a 'Salmon/orange' color from his gloves, it came out perfect.


   
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Lucid Silverback
(@feces-flinger)
Resident Knuckle Dragger
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 165
Topic starter  

I actually think I'm going to risk it and take the plunge with a handful of colors from Mission Models.  Hopefully they are a perfect substitute/complement to the Model Masters line.  If not, then it's either Citadel or Vallejo


   
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TFitz
(@tfitz)
Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 499
 

Just a small paint tip for getting perfect paint matches when you have to mix paints and have to paint parts at different times or fix a blemish. Use pipettes with measurement markings. They are really cheap (100 for around $8) and you can rinse them out if you want.

 


   
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Lucid Silverback
(@feces-flinger)
Resident Knuckle Dragger
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 165
Topic starter  

I have an update on mission model paints..
So, I bought 10 bottles of assorted colors and unfortunately, they fall far short of being a replacement for Model Masters.  On the positive side, the bottle caps have a tiny hole so it is very easy to dispense one drop or two drops at a time.  No need for pipettes @tfitz. Another cool thing is they include an internal shaker-mixer in each bottle similar to spray paint cans.  No need to stir with a toothpick; you can tell when the paint is well mixed by how well the shaker is moving.
Now, for the negative: The paint, while having nice colors/pigments, is very flat and chalky.  I actually prefer a flat for most uses but, this is beyond flat.  It's almost like you used a tempura or actual chalk.
The main problem is durability.  As with Model Masters, I let the paint dry for 24 hours and while Testors MM holds up damn well with "paint rub", this stuff actually easily removes with a mere scraping of one's thumbnail.  Critical Failure!
So I guess I'm back to the Citadel/Vallejo decision. *deep Sigh*

TESTORS! WHY HAVE YOU FORSAKEN ME?!?!


   
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adrienveidt
(@adrienveidt)
Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 727
 

This stuff is invisible concrete, imho:

https://www.michaels.com/product/decoart-americana-duraclear-ultra-matte-varnish-10329783

Assuming the joints have been filed to prevent scrape; some paints will indeed flake/scrape off regardless.  I've found adding a coat of the DuraClear as a 'primer' often gives the grip the paint alone doesn't have.  Then another coat on top of the paint and most times the paint only comes back off with a file.


   
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Red Ogre
(@red_ogre)
The horrors persist, but so do I.
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 601
 

Posted by: @adrienveidt

This stuff is invisible concrete, imho:

https://www.michaels.com/product/decoart-americana-duraclear-ultra-matte-varnish-10329783


Definitely trying this out.


   
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(@salemcrow)
Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 660
 

I know a bunch of mini painters LOVE Army Painter paints, and Robo has been singing their praises in some of his recent play days.

I have a couple I've bought, even a small set, but I am SLOW when it comes to customizing, so I haven't actually used any yet.


   
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IamI
 IamI
(@iami)
Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 26
 

I swear by Tamiya. Something I use when I airbrush is acrylic paint retarder.  If the paint dries too quickly the retarder slows down the drying process.  If you like spray cans I’ve just started experimenting with Krylon and Duplicolor.  Fingers crossed!


   
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adrienveidt
(@adrienveidt)
Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 727
 

Posted by: @red_ogre

Posted by: @adrienveidt

This stuff is invisible concrete, imho:

https://www.michaels.com/product/decoart-americana-duraclear-ultra-matte-varnish-10329783


Definitely trying this out.

Well, have you?  Thoughts?  I bought a new bottle yday from Michael's and I noticed a Clearance price tag on the bottle once I got home.  Now I'm worried.

 


   
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Red Ogre
(@red_ogre)
The horrors persist, but so do I.
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 601
 

@adrienveidt Not yet, but I needed the reminder. I have a figure that I just finished painting last night and he's ready for a topcoat. Michael's was out of the small bottle so I grabbed the 8 oz instead.


   
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adrienveidt
(@adrienveidt)
Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 727
 

I've come to love 'scatter' brushing that DuraClear on, coming at it from all directions to eliminate direction brushmarks; and have come to see that doing this with several layers over flesh helps give realistic light-penetration depth to the flesh tones.  It's a very subtle effect that I don't think comes off in any of my pics but I like it a lot in-hand.  It's especially useful with factory-painted skin compared against cast-plastic skin.


   
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TheGillMan
(@thegillman)
Member
Joined: 2 years ago
Posts: 467
 

I use Citadel or Army Painter for most of my customs (I don't do many, and I'm horrible about procrastinating). I've had good luck with both. 

If anyone is doing a horror based character, and wants some fresh "blood" on their figure or accessories, I highly recommend Citadel's "Blood for the Blood God" paint. I got some at my LCS to use on a wrasslin' figure I was making into a victim for Jason Voorhees...it turned out beautifully.


   
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