Sometimes bad things happen to good toys.

It’s horrific, I know, but Morbius here is a prime example of what I’m talking about. As collectors age, so do their collections. Neither is immune to the passage of time, but unlike you or I, toys are unable to take proactive measures to prolong their lives. From the moment they leave the mold their plastic forms are changing, the complex chemical interactions that form their bodies undergoing a slow and inevitable deterioration. Over the years they will dry, crack and melt into an irreparable state of figure mortis.

What is figure mortis? Let’s define it as that point at which a toy is unrecoverable through conventional means. It’s not something as simple as a broken limb or missing piece. Figure mortis means no amount of glue, touch-up paint or good intentions can save it — at best it’s a pile of pieces you might be able to Frankenstein into something down the road. It can happen over the span of decades or in the blink of an eye, and sooner or later it will happen to you.

So why do good toys die? Well, obviously there are lots of reasons. First and foremost is, they get played with. Its hard to take issue with this: like it or not, action figures are not native to your Detolf. Theirs is the domain of children, and children break stuff. You may manage to keep the crumbsnatchers hands off your stuff just to have your toys meet a much grimmer fate. You know the story: a normal action figure, with seemingly everything to live for, suddenly hurls himself from a high shelf to the hard and unforgiving floor. Even worse is when he takes half a dozen innocents with him. MEDIC! We’ve got another jumper!

Sometimes toys die through no fault of our own. Consider “Exploding Crotch” Iceman. No, he didn’t earn that nickname in adult films, but among collectors lamenting his abysmal engineering. The figure is infamous for shattering at the pelvis. It’s pretty lousy as secondary mutations go, so to understand it we have to consider Iceman’s genetics.

Action figures are primarily composed of two distinct types of plastic: acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (or ABS) and polyvinyl chloride (or PVC.) ABS is the hard stuff, and is used primarily for torsos and pelvi. PVC is a softer plastic, and is called upon for extremities, capes and accessories. Each has its pros and cons when it comes to action figure construction.

ABS is far sturdier than PVC, which is why its used for an action figure’s trunk and junk. It’s rigidity makes it an ideal base for anchoring moving parts or attaching accessories. Moisture in the resin during processing, rate of cooling, and mold temperature are all factors that may affect the strength of ABS plastic. Environmental factors such as extreme temperature shifts, prolonged exposure to heat or cold and humidity can also negatively affect ABS, leading to stress-marks, splitting and breakage in your action figure.

PVC’s more pliable nature makes it ideal for use in items like capes and accessories. This pliability also lends itself to use in moving parts such as limbs, allowing for more torque to be placed on a joint without incurring breakage. On the flip side, PVC can degrade rapidly in environmental extremes: as a thermoplastic it softens as it warms, breaking down and losing its elasticity over time. This can lead to tearing and wear. Additionally, the migration of chemicals in the PVC can react to figure’s paint, causing the plastic to become forever “tacky.”

So if these plastics break down so readily, why are they still being used? Well, to answer your question with another question, what would you replace them with? ABS and PVC are the cheapest materials available — higher quality substances like resins or die-cast metals are cost prohibitive when it comes to manufacturing mass-market toys. Not only that, but these materials take better impressions from the metal molds than alternative “old school” plastics like polystyrene. Like it or not, ABS and PVC are here to stay.

So what can you do as a collector to protect your toys? The answer is use simple common sense. Keep your toys from direct sunlight, as it can fade paints and plastics as well as speed degradation. This is especially true of toys still in the package, as the clear blister and printed cardboard will show signs of damage far sooner than the toy within. Keep your condition from climatic extremes like high heat or low temperature. If you’re putting your toys in storage, spend the extra cash and get a climate-controlled unit. PVC capes are notorious for melting, especially if they come in contact with another figure, so wrap every figure individually. It might seem like a lot of work, but it will save you heartbreak and expense in the long run.

Many collectors employ the aforementioned Detolf glass-fronted cabinets to display their toys. If you have the cash these are a stylish and compact option, but some may find them cold and sterile environments. If you’re like me you may prefer simple shelves for your display. If you go this route make sure you invest in some Blu-Tack. I can get just about any figure to stand, but with my three-year-old daughter’s bedroom on the opposite side of the wall I’ve had more than my fair share of “jumpers.” A bit of Blu-Tack on each foot can go a long way in keeping even the wobbliest figure standing.

While smoking is currently out of vogue here in the U.S., one should be wary of the occasional tobacco enthusiast lighting up around the collection. Plastic is porous and absorbs odors like smoke readily. A collector should also invest in a good feather duster or a can of compressed air and hit their shelves regularly: oils from your own hands or those released from potpourri or cooking can cling to plastic over time. When dust lands on these accumulated oils it can begin to adhere, especially in deeply-sculpted areas like collars and cape wrinkles. If you have a pet, you’d better be on high alert. Your toys have no defense from the fur, skin flakes and random dander that can build up after a long winter with the windows closed.

If you have a sizable or especially rare collection, you may want to consider insuring it. A homeowner’s insurance policy might provide adequate coverage for one or two items, but a larger collection calls for a separate policy. Talk to your provider about your options: you never know when disaster might strike, and you can’t expect Superman to fly your stuff to safety. Keep a list of the items in your collection in case of theft — remember, collectibles are big business these days and if someone thinks you have a room of valuable stuff your Darth Vader poster isn’t going to keep them from breaking in and stealing it.

So there you have it. While you’re powerless to stop the march of time, you can slow its hand when it comes to your collection. As I said above, a lot of these tips are simple common sense. Remember, there are certain figures that no amount of care can prevent from succumbing to figure mortis: DC Direct/ DC Collectibles are notorious for the use of a clear plastic in their joints that is known to be prone to breakage. Countless QC reports have been filed, but the practice continues to this day. As the cost of the hobby creeps ever upward, collectors must be vigilant not only in protecting their toys, but their wallets as well. Hope you found this article useful and informative. Now go dust your toys.

Special thanks to Alan Stephenson, William W Mittler and Mike Kales for their photographic contributions.

You may also like:

BURNING YOUTH! The Destruction of Childhood Toys!

Discuss this article on the Fwoosh forums!